In the early 1980's, 23-year-old Steve Reifenberg began volunteering at an orphanage in a poor neighborhood of Santiago, equipped with little more than basic Spanish and good intentions. Reifenberg's moving memoir Santiago's Children, about his two years at the Hogar Domingo Savio, will be published soon by the University of Texas Press with a foreward by Paul Farmer.
Chile is a long, narrow country, extending 2,700 miles from the border with Peru in the north to Tierra Del Fuego at the southern tip of South America. Chile is sandwiched between the Pacific Ocean and the Andes Mountains, never more than 110 miles wide. It contains the most arid desert in the world in the north, and lush forests and fertile farmland in the Mediterranean-like central region. In the south, it boasts spectacular snow-capped mountains with glaciers, fjords and volcanoes, including 55 active ones; natural threats include earthquakes and tsunamis. Chile also has islands extending westward into the Pacific (the most famous of which is Easter Island), and a section of Antarctica.
Historically, the ancient Incan civilization extended as far south as Antofagasta in northern Chile, while the Mapuche people traditionally lived in southern Chile. Most Chileans today are mestizo, mixed descendants of the Spanish colonizers and the indigenous people. The population is generally conservative and the Catholic Church holds great influence.
About Bío-Bío, Araucanía, Los Ríos
The Bío-Bío, Araucanía and River regions are home to the largest concentrations of native Mapuche Indians whose fierce warrior spirit kept the Spanish Conquistadors at bay for several centuries. Here the endless mountains are covered in thick, sometimes impenetrable forests. Due to heavy rainfall year-round, this zone has lush vegetation and offers snow-skiing from July through September. The forestry sector is particularly relevant here (pulp mills, lumber, etc.). The lakes in this area are ideal for water sports. The largest urban centers are Concepción, Chillán, Los Angeles, Temuco, and Valdivia.
About Santiago
Santiago is both Chile’s capital and largest city. According to the 2002 census, Santiago is home to 40 percent of Chile’s population, who live in 32 comunas or boroughs. Spanish conquistador Pedro de Valdivia founded Santiago in 1541 and built it based on a traditional Spanish checkerboard pattern that can still be seen to this day. Thanks to its geography, Santiago has a Mediterranean climate with dry, hot summers (December through March) and cold, wet winters (June through September). Santiago is the financial, business and governmental center of the country, and is home to a large number of universities, museums and cultural venues.
About Valparaíso
Valparaíso is located on the coast of Chile’s heartland, serves as Chile’s main port, and is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Many compare its steep hills and windy roads to those of San Francisco, California. Valparaíso is currently home to the Chilean Congress, a move made in an attempt to decentralize the country, though many want the Congress to return to Santiago which is just a little less than 2 hours away by car. Valparaíso has a mild year-round climate that attracts large numbers of tourists. The port itself is one of the more economically depressed areas of the city and is currently undergoing privatization to increase its efficiency and tourist appeal. Valparaíso has an up-and-coming nightlife, though Viña del Mar often outshines it. However, Valparaíso excels in terms of craft, flea and antique markets.
About Viña del Mar
Viña del Mar (affectionately called La Ciudad Jardín, or the Garden City) is well-known for its white beaches and Mediterranean cityscape. Once Chile’s prime beach resort, now most travelers go to other seaside resorts that don’t have such a cool sea breeze, almost constant fog and chilly Pacific currents. However, on weekends and in the summers, one sees many Santiaguinos vacationing here. There are numerous options for fine dining in Viña del Mar as well as for entertainment. With a total population of over 800,000, Greater Valparaíso, which includes Viña del Mar, competes with the Greater Concepción area for position as the second largest metropolitan center in Chile.
About Concepción
Concepción was founded in 1550 and has served as Chile’s industrial powerhouse for much of its history. Whereas Santiago, Valparaíso, and Viña del Mar are tourist hot-spots, Concepción is still sheltered from the tourist boom. The 1960 earthquake and the depletion of a nearby mine have struck a blow to Concepción’s economy from which the area is still recovering. Concepción does boast two major events during the year: the two-week long Feria Internacional de Arte Popular (the International People’s Arts Fair) in January, and the week-long Fiesta de la Primavera, (Festival of Spring) in October. Concepción is also a major university city, and Greater Concepción, which includes the port city of Talcahuano, is home to over 1 million Chileans.
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Web Resources for Chile
