Tuesday, June 28, 2005

Fidel Castro

I've been meaning to tell you all this for centuries but keep forgetting it everytime. There is a street here in Windheok that is called "Fidel Castro Street." And its not some back road or a little thing off the side. It is smack in the middle of town and crosses through Independence Ave. and Mahatama Gandhi St. along with other ones.

Went to Swakopmund and Walvish Bay last weekend. Basically the central coastal region. It is gorgeous. One of the most beautiful places I've ever been. There is so much natural beauty in this country. The Namib desert flows into the ocean. The sight is breath taking. I now also realize how scary a desert is. I was quad biking in the desert and man, I never ever want to get lost in a desert.

Also climbed this gigantic sand dune. Its hard work!

Back to school and the usual. Don't have internet at school any more. Other things weren't working either but slowly the computers are working again.

By the way had a bit of a accident while quad biking. Nothing too bad, just a couple of bruises and still a little bit sore.

Gotta go for now.

Tuesday, June 21, 2005

English...

I know what I'm going to give the school as a going away present....toilet paper and soap. I swear everytime I go to the washroom there is no toilet paper and then you have to go to the principal office to get some.

Yesterday was a pretty frustrating day. After five days of trying to hold training sessions only one teacher showed up. So now I'm back to only teaching kids. I'm teaching 6th grade English.

I swear I'm going to throw away some teacher's damn cell phone. They need to keep those stupid things on silent during classes.

I am again in one of those stages,,,have too many thoughts and not enough words.

Btw how do you teach a child who faints because he hasn't eaten for two days?

Friday, June 17, 2005

African Child Day

Yesterday was African Child Day. A brief history behind it. In the 70's children in Namibia revolted in schools against the South African administration. Many children were killed and since independence they celebrate this day.

Its interesting living in a country that got its independence so recently. Namibians seem to also have a lot of African pride as well.

I also saw the PM Angula who spoke at the ceremony yesterday after being 2.5 hours fashionably late. Politicains everywhere seem to love the sound of their voice.

By the ceremony I mean that we went to a pretty big netball stadium yesterday and many schools were there. Some of them performed as well. Basically an event for the day.It was so easy to tell which were the German schools and the former white schools. As I said earlier segregation though unofficial is still visible.

So one really cute thing happened yesterday. So there is this boy Joseph in grade 4 who is one of the naughtiest kids on the planet. As the function was in a stadium, it meant that we were sitting in the sun. I was covering one side of my face with a paper and then I felt a shade. When I turned around I saw that Joseph was holding up a poster for me so the sun won't shine on my face. Ain't that so cute? Before that he was also playing with my hair. After a little while his friends starting laughing at him and starting saying, "Teacher he likes you teacher." It was hilarious.

Yesterday I saw some grade 1 girls just running aimlessly and laughing. Sights like these warm my heart. They looked soooo cute. I wuv kids!

On a side note "sugar-daddy" is a pretty popular word here.

Wednesday, June 15, 2005

Day 3...

It seems that the situation is politically charged in southern Africa at the moment. As you might know the vice president of South Africa got sacked by the President for corruption and money laundering charges. Pretty impressive. Zuma (the sacked vice President) made a pretty calm speech yesterday about it though which was surprising. However, the front page of Namibian, the leading English newspaper in Namibia covered Michael Jackson's story rather than covering what is happeneing in South Africa. The labour uniouns and the communist party in South Africa seem to support what happened with Zuma. What is interesting is that the communist party actually has aprescence in South Africa. However, Zuma is still going to be the vice president of ANC which is the ruling party of South Africa till 2007 or till ANC decides otherwise.

Let me now tell you about my school. It is my third day at the school and so far so good. The computers seem to agree with me which is VERY good. The schools get computers through a government owned organization called School Net. They give 5 or 10 computers to schools and I think so far about 300 schools in Namibia have computers. Now don't think state of the art computers, think very basic computers. It is a good programme but comes with its own sets of problems.

1)The school might be based 100s of miles away from the nearest technical support.
2)It takes days sometimes weeks to get a technician.
3)The main problem is teachers are extremely intimidated by computers. I have tried to have training sessions for them and nobody shows up. Well its only day 3 so I'm still hopeful.

My school has 1477 kids. Its a primary school so they are from grade 1-7. This means I have about 40-45 kids per class. How do you teadch these many kids in one class, good question? How do you teach 40 kids with 20 or less textbooks? How do you teach when there aren't enough desks and chairs for everyone to sit on? I'm figuring out the answers to these questions. For computers I will have 40 kids and 9 computers which makes it pretty interesting.

There is no printer and the internet works preeeeeeeeeeeeeeety slowly.

There are 39 teachers in the school which means they are either over-worked or don 't give a damn about the students. The students are trained to rote learn and refuse to think for themseleves. They want you to write on the board so they can copy it, memorize it and spew it make at you. Obviously, language plays a big part in this too.

Though its an English medium school and english is the national language of Namibia, kids still have a hard time understanding it. On top of that my foreign accent doesn't make it any easier for them.

Namibia has 11 main languages. Oshivambo being the most prevalent as Oshivambo people make up most of the population. 60% of the country lives in the north as it is the wet part of the country.

A little more about the school. My school is in Katatura and as I worte in one of my earlier blogs this is where the blacks lived durign the aparthied. When driving through the city you can still see how different areas have different colored people. Town is where you'll see most whites, then some areas like Durato Valley is mixed. Some neighborhoods is colored. But Katatura is still predominantly black population and is one of the poorest parts of the city. Its amazing how you can tell what the plumbing in the houses will be like looking at the skin color of the people living in the neighborhood. I can't even articulate what race signifies here.

And on top of that there are tribal differences. Oshivambo, Harara (there was a genocide against them as well), Tamaara, San (more commonly known as Bushmen). You can see this in politics everywhere. Whether it is national politics or school politics. People complain that the government favors the Oshivambo people more than others and thus the north gets most of the benefits of any form of economic development. I mean it isn't extremely bad but it is still an issue. So its not just white and black, its black and black, and dark and light. I think its the same in many other countries as well. It is just that living in such a country and seeing how it really plays out is an eye-opener.

Even in schools you can see the ethnicity clicks among teachers. I don't even know if the words I'm using are PC any more and frankly I don't care. This is what I hear and see everyday and I don't care if we try to gloss it over in the US.

The leading party is SWAPO (South Western African People Organization). This is the same party that fought for the independence of Namibia. As you might be able to tell, their name has South Western in it. Under South Africa, Namibia was called South Western Africa.

I've also been told that Oshivambo people have the least mixed people in it or who they call colored. To quote my host mother “As they were in the north away from the Germans who lived mostly in the center, their women got raped the least by German men. If you want really black people you should travel to the north.” I don't know how muchof this is true but it is a perspectie nevertheless. The whites still own most of the land all over Namibia, including the North. If you look at the map you can see giant outlines of farmland owned by these people. Though there are land reforms going on the process is slow. For someone to buy the land they need to have 300-500 cattle. Well you can't really have that much cattle if you don't have the land to raise it. This is just an example, because the land size and cattle proportion vary. There seems to be moves by the government to make the process easier, for example people can pay for the land or raise the cattle number in installments.

Let me move on to the roads and traffic here. Well thanks to alcoholism there are a LOT of accidents. People drive when they are drunk. So between AIDS and car accidents, you have a lot of people dying. I think if I had written all of this a few days ago there might have been more emotion in my writing. You could possibly seem glimpses of pain and sorrow but now its just shock and then just a state of blankness.

Is my presence here making any difference? I don't know. How can I as a foreigner empower people/students here.....don't know.


On top of that the media drives me NUTS. If you can afford it you get a decorder which gets you DSTV which is like cable but with less channels. Otherwise you get 2 or 3 channels. And atleast on one of them there will be some priest preaching most of the day. On a side note this country is pretty Christian. Assembly, staff meetings, everything starts with a prayer. The students might not even know what they are saying but they bow their head in dedication and conviction and pray. Something like this also happened in Pakistan and now it makes me want to scream. Such institutionalized religion. However, religion is more a public thing than a private thing. God and Jesus appear a lot less in private conversations and mostly they aren't mentioned at all.

Then obviously you have your Catholic priests going around performing miracles on HIV + patients. They pour water on their head and pray and abra cadabra you are cured. As you can see I'm not very happy with this.

Don't get me wrong I don't have a problem with religion but its this enforced, colonized, institutionalized, imperializing form of religion.....aaaaah I don't know. I don't think I can explain it fully right now.

I remember all the conversations I've had with friends back at college about the role of religion in colonization and imperialism and Namibia is a fine example of that.

Ok back to media: its mostly white people. Its mostly Ameican stuff, even dubbed Spanish and Brazillian soaps. Haven't seen one Namibian soap yet and I'm watching those 2 or 3 national channels. The music also drives me up the wall. Let me present you a song,
“ something something in Afrikaans and then ....just get down, just get down, just get down I wanna see you naked, just get down.”

You'll find a lot of such imitations of American hip-hop here. Even the pop videos are pretty annoying. Obviously the traditional music is great. I just wish I heard more of it.

Oh there is also this traditional dance called Kwasa Kwasa.....and its hilarious. There is a LOT of pelvic thrusting in it, its amazing.

These are all random pieces of experiences. I don't know if I can make coherent sense of all the thoughts in my head.

Oh one more thing....the kids here love my hair. The first two days they kept wanting to touch it and the younger ones want to touch my face....yay for being a foreigner. “Teacher teacher your hair is so long teacher.” “Teacher teacher your hair is so soft teacher.” “Teacher can i touch your face teacher.” They don't quite understand when I say no. Aww...kiddies.


As for the reality of AIDS that is a whole new story, A whole new bunch of questions. Ya that and sexism.

Saturday, June 11, 2005

After moving in

Moved in with my host family yesterday and all of a sudden felt very lonely. It was like, "Great, I'm in this place with my stuff and don't know anybody." Also, my host family's place got broken into 3 days ago and a bunch of her electronic stuff got stolen. Knowing this didn't add to my sense of security.

Have heard so much about crime here that I think I'm scared all the time which is a very different feeling. It suxs to always have to hold on to your purse or bag and keep looking around. Its like you never relax.

What suxs about living in a big city is that there is not a common place to hang out which is what small towns and villages have. I'm hoping that once I start going to school I'll meet people and more familiar people would make me feel more comfortable.

My host mother is the principal of the school I will be teaching in. She got divorced 8 years ago after being married for 16 years. She has three daughters. The oldest is 24 and was married and has a three year old daughter. Her husband died in a car accident two years ago.

My host mother is definitely middle class and lives in a nice location even though she talks a lot about being poor. When a huge percentage of people in this country live under US$2 a month, living in a house which doesn't wash away in the rain makes you a pretty economically stable person.

A bunch of really wierd things happened yesterday. First my host mother, Pauline, kept saying how poor she was and gave an example of how quickly the elctricity finishes. ( Here people buy a prepaid electricity card and then feed it into the meter). And then I saw last night and this morning that the radio would be on without anyone being in the room or the TV will stay on without anyone watching it. Then she had to run some errands yesterday so she asked me to cook dinner and after I did she said that she was offended that I cooked and felt bad. Now I'm guessing she meant that she felt sorry and not offended.

I felt crap all day yesterday. Woke up today with the same feeling so decided to go into town. However, its not a very comfortable feeling walking around and having to be on ultra alert in case anyone decides that they like the look of your bag.

And then you have people begging which makes your heart leap to your mouth. Here people don't play a musical instrument to earn money, they whistle. Probably because they can't afford to buy an instrument. Most of the beggars I've seen so far are blind.

Coming into town is an unusual place. This is where the rich and the poor, the white, black and colored mix which makes up for interesting socail dynamics. It is also unusual for me to stick out somewhere so much. I have only seen a couple of people like me i.e. people from the Indian sub-continent. I felt a bit like that when I was in Brazil but I guess I was with friends there all the time so I didn't quite feel the need to blend in so much. Here, however I wish the neon sign over my head which says foreigner would switch off. It would have been different if I was in South Africa as thanks to the Brits there is a pretty significant population of Indians there. For those who don't know the history. After the slave trade, the Brits figured out that it would be nice to bring in some "servants". There were people from the sub-continent who the white rulers thought were more apt in the field of civil service etc.

After reading Cox, this makes up for an interesting race and class observation. To put it simply, the whites were the ruling class and held the white-collar jobs, the browns the blue collar jobs and the blacks were the basic labor. However, there were is an exception as some of the "servants" were brought in to work on certain kind of crops. Makes me think about Mexicans in US today.

I sometimes feel that the brown people still are best at making themselves invisible. In UK where they make a large percentage of the country is where I felt most that they were working not so hard to make themselves invisible.

I don't know if I'm making any sense anymore. There are way too many thoughts in my head and feelings in my heart to be able to articualte it well.


Start teaching on Monday, till then pray for me or keep your fingers crossed. Which ever one you believe in more.

Thursday, June 09, 2005

Last day of orientation...

So here I am and today is that last day of orientation. Just went to a laundry place and have some nice smellign clothes now. I'll start teaching on Monday. Nothing very eventful except that I tried a little bt of lamb which I've never had in my life and I don't think my stomach liked it very much.

A couple ofdays ago went to Halal bakery and met and extremely friendly and sweet Muslim woman, Bibi. Found out that there is a Shia mosque in Windheok called Kuba Mosque and then an Islamic Center run by Wahabis. They also have a Mulsim Woman Association there. Kewl, eh?

Cindy...I hope you get to Guatemala ok. Let me know when you get there.Lots of wishes.

Tuesday, June 07, 2005

More thoughts...

Don't have a lot of time right now but quickly wanted to share an experience I had day before yesterday. We went to a restaurant in the mall in town i.e. downtown. Historically, that is where the whites lived and still continued to live. Well in the restaurant every single patron was white and the owner was white and every single server was black. It was racial differences smack in your face. Let's say I didn't quite have an appetitte after.

Haven't heard much from most of you so let me know how things are going.

Sunday, June 05, 2005

for disturbing reading...

Smilee...

Greetings friends. First let me explain my title Smilee means cooked goat head. Yup the whole thing. We went for a traditional dinner last night and it was carnivorism gone wild. The tongue, brain, jaw muscles, intestines, heart, liver....people don't like to waste here! Apparently the head, long intestines and liver is the most special meal which is reserved for elders in a household and for guests. This was at a "restaurant" but a more traditional ones. The Pakistanis among us would uderstadn this better when I'll say taht it was like a dhaba on the highways. So we eat outside. No menus. The cooking is out in the open and there is this tin room with a big window. thing which serves as the reception/cashier etc. There are concrete benches around a concrete table and some other plastic tables and chair. Very comfy.

Now moving off the dinner table. Windheok prides itself in being very clean. We've been told that if you throw something out of your car window then you'll get yelled at.

I might have already said that but Namibia got independence only 15 years ago. However, the signs of aparhied are still pretty visible. The white people still live near the town center and townships are still where the poor black communities live. As you can imagine the living conditions are VERY different. The place where we went to eat last night is called Katatura which means "a place where nobody wants to go." This is where the black community uses to live. A huge majority of the people are black and then we have whites, colored adn Bastars. Bastars are people who look very much like he colored people (like mullatos) but pride themselves from being of German descent. Germany was the first colonizer in Namibia.

The country has a pretty good literacy rate...around 85% But not many people go on for tertiary education. The country sepnds about 25% pf its budget adn 10% of its GDP on education. This is a contrast from Pakistan which has a low literacy rate but a lot of universities. There are only a handful of universities in Namibia. People who can afford it tend ot go to South africa for further education.

However, half of the population lives in poverty. And 3 or four out of every adult is unemployed. The biggest hurdle for development (apart from the economic aparthied) is AIDS. Namibia is the 5th in the world for the percentage of people effected by HIV. the country is huge but the population is 1.8 million. most of the people live in the north of the country. And are Oshivambo people. The entire country is broken into 13 gepgraphical regions.

22% of the people are affected by HIV with 20% of the women already affected.In Oshikanto which is a northern region 34% of pregannt women are affected by HIV.

All these numbers and the living conditions of people in the townships is preety enough to make you humble and thoughful and frustrated for a number of days.

Won't be back till Thursday.

Friday, June 03, 2005

In Windheok

So we arrived last night after travelling for two days. The 14 hour wait in London was little excruciating(sp?). However, all baggage and stuff got here ok. have a nasty cold but nothing too bad.


To tell you the truth I don't think it has really hit me yet that I'm in Namibia. Today when comign to the internet cafe it hit a bit but nothing too much in the face. I have a feeling I'll wake up and be in the US.

The city is pretty clean. I'll actually be in Windheok, which is the capital city for teh whole summer. Haven't had any interaction with the locals so can't say much about the culture yet. However, it is interesting to see white people on billboards for expensive stuff. The city is pretty clean and the US embassy pretty secure. That's pretty much it.

A lot of talk about crime and safety. It's wierd, coz when I was sitting back at the place where we're staying I had a million things running in my head that I wanted to write. First impressions of the first African country I go to. But now I can't think of anything specific. Well you'll read more later.

I would hardly have internet access during orientation which is a week long but hopefully after that I'll have a more regular access.

All the volunteers are together at the Rossing Institution for orientation.

Some of the other volunteers are pretty American! But not too bad!!! Actually I haven't really talked to them much...atleast not anything controversial.

Its winter here but while the sun is up....its pretty warm.

Gotta run...take care all and let me know what you're up to.

Wednesday, May 11, 2005

The beginning....

As-salam-alaikum and hi,

I thought today would be a good day to start writing this blog. Why you ask? Well got all my vaccinations...boy that was a lot of medicine. Excited..YES! Worried, nervous...maybe. Want to say a lot but don't know where to start.

I don't know why this quote come to mind:

"What kind of an idea are you? Are you the kind that compromises, does deals, accomodates itself to society, aims to find a niche, to survive; or are you the cussed, bloody minded, ramrod-backed type of dam fool notion that would rather break than sway with the breeze? The kind that will almost certainly, ninety-nine times out of a hundred, be smashed to bits; but, the hundredth time, will change the world."

Don't get me wrong, I don't think I'll change the education system of Namibia by any means. Or bring a soicalist revolution to them (hee hee!)...I guess I'm excited to smile and play with kids. For those who know me please pray that I don't crash their computers and that I don't be like "OK kids, let's go play, we don't want to study today when it's nice and bright outside."

Oh ya....I forgot to tell those who have no idea who this person is....sophomore in college...travelling to Namibia in almost 20 days.

Peace.